[H's Tips] – to prolong the life of your Trousers
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KNOW YOUR PRODUCT – KNEE LINING
WHY KNEE LINE A TROUSER?
• It increases comfort for the wearer.
• The lining is put on just marginally tighter than the shell fabric and therefore all the stress in the knee area when the wearer is walking or sitting is taken by the lining and not by the shell fabric.
• The age old problem has been trousers becoming baggy on the knee. Loose weave fabrics, linens and silks are particularly susceptible to this.
WHAT IS THE LINING MADE OF?
The lining is made of 60% polyester for strength and stability and 40% Bemberg viscose, which gives the silky, slippery feel and allows the fabric to breathe so that the wearer remains comfortable.
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KNOW YOUR PRODUCT – ITALIAN WAISTBAND
INTRODUCTION
There are many different traditions in tailoring, among them those relating to various armed forces and those relating to countries of origin.
TECHNICAL
Traditional Italian method of tailoring a trouser waistband. The lining of the band has two parts – the inside unseen one which is blindstitched to the waistband and the outer part which is the one nearer the skin, is wider and covers the row of blindstitching.
BENEFITS
- From the outside of the trouser, the seam between the band and the top of the trouser appears neater and has no unsightly row of topstitching round the bottom of the band. The seam appears ‘open’ (i.e. flat) and is an unmistakable sign of superior tailoring.
- The lining of the waistband is softer, wider and more comfortable because it more easily conforms to the shape of the body. This is because the blindstitching is a more flexible method of fastening than the more common lockstitch, which goes right through the band.
- This form of construction keeps the shape of the trouser longer, especially around the top of the fly where the trouser is much less likely to distort after months of wear.
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KNOW YOUR PRODUCT -THE FOB POCKET
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
The original fob pocket was one of the lower pockets of the waistcoat used to keep your watch in. These were the days of wearing the watch on a chain.
With changes in fashion of course the waistcoat has from time to time disappeared from a man’s wardrobe. During one of these times the pocket was transferred to the trouser. With the advent of the wrist watch the pocket was put to use as a home for loose change.
FOB POCKETING TODAY
Because the pocket must have a narrow opening and the action of removing the coins is done with thumbs and forefingers of varying dimensions, the ends of the pocket are easily torn. Such a tear is impossible to repair completely and so this simple failure can ruin a perfectly good suit.
The reinforcement is a combination of:
- an extremely strong tape
- highly abrasion resistant pocket lining, and
- stitch bartacks transferring the load safely onto the waistband
The benefit is that the pocket will outlast the trouser.
Our research tells us that pocket failure is the factor that most commonly determines the life of the trouser and so this form of construction extends the life of the garment, so if the trouser is a part of a suit this is an even bigger benefit to the consumer.
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How to measure yourself for a Suit
This week I was asked, several times how do we at ZM measure a customer for a suit. Well without sounding arrogant we can pretty much pick your size as soon as you walk through the door, but we have done this a long time.
I have made an easy guide for to follow below.
- Get yourself a tap measure ( not the builders type ). Any tailor or fabric shop will sell them.
- Now to measure your chest, you may need someone to help you do this. Raise your arms and put the tape measure under your arms, around your shoulder blades and around to meet in the middle of your chest. I like to leave it a little loose so you can pick a jacket that gives you enough room to move. Take note of your chest size in inches or cm’s.
- Sleeve lengths come in Short, Regular and Long. We can adjust the sleeve length of any suit to fit you so don’t worry about this too much.
- Next the waist, put the tape measure around your waist not where your stomach is but where you like the trousers to sit on your waist. Pull the tape measure tight against your waist and most importantly DON’T hold your tummy in, you want the trousers to fit you comfortably so relax your tummy. Take note of the size in inches or cm’s.
You can measure your outside leg by holding the tip of the tape measure to the top part of your waist line (where you want the trouser waist to sit ) and take it down to the floor just underneath you heal (with no shoes on). This is your outside leg measurement.
So now you have your Chest, Waist and Outside leg measurements, keep these in your wallet and you will save loads of time when you are out shopping. Once you find the Suit size you want try it on, this is the best way to find the fit that suits you.
